After years as a cult favorite among collectors, Louis Vuitton is officially bringing back a legend: the Monterey. The new limited-edition timepiece is a stunning homage to the house’s inaugural wristwatches from 1988—the LV I and LV II models. Designed by celebrated Italian architect Gae Aulenti, both original timepieces displayed a distinctive pebble‑shaped case lacking lugs, a crown at 12 o’clock, and advanced quartz calibers with travel-related features.
From Cult Classic to Modern Icon
It was first spotted on Tyler, the Creator‘s wrist in 2023 and later made waves on TikTok among vintage-watch fans.
Earlier this year, at the Louis Vuitton Women’s Fall/Winter 2025 runway, Artistic Director Nicolas Ghesquière and stylist Marie‑Amélie Sauvé dressed the models with original LV I pieces on their wrists and necks. This week, the LV II made its runway debut for the upcoming Spring/Summer 2026 collection, appearing as a refined belt accent.
What’s in a Name? The ‘Monterey’ Moniker
What is the origin of the name “Monterey”? Curiously, the watch was affectionately nicknamed “Monterey” after Americans commonly mispronounced the French montre (“wristwatch”) as “mont‑ray.”
Staying faithful to the original, the new Monterey puts Louis Vuitton’s cutting‑edge manufacturing know‑how on full display. The 39mm yellow-gold case is polished in-house, topped with a signature crown embellished with Clous de Paris detailing at twelve, and features a hidden lugless quick-release strap system beneath the leather.
The Monterey’s dial steals the show, fashioned with the venerable Grand Feu enamel process. A white‑gold substrate receives multiple, precisely‑applied enamel powders that are fired at temperatures exceeding 800 °C, producing a radiant and resilient finish.
Using enamel paste instead of regular ink, each color is fired several times, resulting in the raised, luminous appearance of the black, red, and blue indicators. Gold, syringe‑shaped hands coated in red lacquer and a thermally blued steel seconds hand accent the enamel surface, paying homage to the 1988 design.
The Heart of the Matter: A New Automatic Caliber
The most significant change is under the case, where the quartz mechanism has been superseded by an original automatic caliber, conceived and manufactured exclusively at La Fabrique du Temps.
Although the movement is hidden, the LFT MA01.02 automatic caliber is a finely crafted compact design developed in-house. Key specifications include:
- Rotor: A central 18k rose-gold rotor with V-shaped notches.
- Finishing: Sandblasted bridges, micro-sandblasted edges, perlage on the main plate, and polished bevels.
- Frequency: 28,800 vph.
- Power Reserve: 45 hours.
Price and Availability
Limited to 188 units, the 2025 Louis Vuitton Monterey retails for $56,500 USD and is presented in a traditional Louis Vuitton trunk. For more details, please visit louisvuitton.com.
