The very first Hermès Birkin—the iconic design that became a global symbol of status and style—is set to hit the auction block in Paris next month. Legend has it that actress Jane Birkin was seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas, then chairman of Hermès, on an Air France flight when she mentioned her struggle to find a handbag suited for everyday use. Inspired by her needs, the maison crafted the bag and, in 1985, presented it to Jane Birkin—seeking her blessing to name the design in her honor. The result? An enduring icon that redefined luxury.
“There is no doubt that the Original Birkin bag is a true one-of-a-kind — a singular piece of fashion history that has grown into a pop culture phenomenon that signals luxury in the most refined way possible.” Morgane Halimi, Sotheby’s Global Head of Handbags and Fashion.
As a one-of-a-kind prototype created exclusively for Jane, the original Birkin subtly diverges from the refined model that would later define Hermès’ pinnacle of luxury.
A Bag That Tells a Story: Jane Birkin’s Personal Companion
Inseparable from Jane Birkin herself, the Original Birkin became her most treasured companion—carried with ease and devotion. The bag’s weathered condition reveals the story of decades of use, preserved exactly as Jane last carried it. Featuring her initials J.B. and the nail clipper she always attached to its strap, it remains a profoundly personal keepsake.
What Makes the Original Birkin Prototype Unique?
Several key differences distinguish this prototype from the Birkin model that entered production in 1985, including:
- Dimensions combining the width and height of a Birkin 35 with the depth of a Birkin 40 (measuring 36 x 27 x 21 cm)
- Closed pontet rings, unlike the open rings that remained standard until the early 1990s
- Gilded brass hardware, later replaced by gold-plated hardware featuring a signature check mark
- An “Eclair” branded inner zipper, which was succeeded by Riri zippers in the 1990s
- Smaller “feet” or bottom studs
- A unique, non-removable shoulder strap—the only one of its kind
Accompanying the bag is the original certificate from the charity auction “Les Enchères de l’Espoir,” signed by Jane Birkin on October 5, 1994, together with the Hotel des Ventes du Palais auction catalogue, Poulain Le Fur (May 12, 2000), and the ‘Bags: Inside Out’ exhibition catalogue from the V&A, 2020.
Exhibition and Auction Details
Starting June 12, the Original Birkin will be exhibited at Sotheby’s New York offices, followed by a Paris showcase from July 3 to 9, leading up to its much-anticipated feature in the house’s online “Fashion Icons” sale on July 10, , where it will likely set a new record as the most expensive Birkin ever sold.
This prototype marks the beginning of a legacy that would eventually produce some of the most expensive handbags ever sold, including the iconic Hermès Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Diamond Birkin.
